Sancerre Rouge Les Marnes Vacheron 2023 (750ML)

Since 2010, Vacheron has bottled Les Marnes on its own only five times, and 2023 is the fifth. The rule behind it is strict: if the wine does not outshine Vacheron’s Belle Dame Sancerre, it does not get a separate release, so a bottling of Les Marnes is itself a verdict on the year. This is Pinot Noir from Sancerre that can stand comparison with Burgundy. Plum and dark cherry come first, followed by baking spice and a clear note of clove. The fruit is ripe, but a steady line of acidity keeps it fresh. The tannins are fine-grained and easygoing, giving the palate a soft, dusty texture, and the finish is long. Critics see it at its best from around 2027 into the mid-2030s. Pour it with roast guinea fowl, pork loin with plums or a mushroom and Gruyère tart.