Gigondas La Louisiane Vieilles Vignes Domaine St Damien 2017 (750ML)

Grenache planted in 1942 anchors Domaine St Damien's La Louisiane, named for the lieu-dit on the terraced hillsides of Gigondas where its parcels sit. The soil is poor old alluvium, red clay strewn with broken pebbles, and Mourvèdre planted in 1977 joins the Grenache in a blend rounded out with Syrah. The varieties are combined before going into concrete vats for a six-week fermentation, and then the wine matures in oak casks and demi-muids. The 2017 pours a clear violet and opens with cassis and black raspberry, incense, smoky mineral tones and a savory, cracked-pepper edge, lifted by fresh blossoms and lavender. Full-bodied yet energetic, it shows well-defined fruit and ripe, rounded tannins that firm up the long finish. It is approachable now and should keep well into the 2030s, according to critics. Reach for it with cassoulet, wild boar ragù or hanger steak au poivre.