Barolo Cerretta Luigi Baudana 2017 (750ML)

Forest floor, prune, leather and pipe tobacco aromas make their way to the forefront. Showing the heat of the vintage, it's full-bodied and concentrated, offering cherry marinated in spirits, licorice and the warmth of evident alcohol. Tightly knit, enveloping tannins provide firm, velvety support. Drink 2025–2032.

A release of 3,000 bottles, the Luigi Baudana 2017 Barolo Cerretta is the most downplayed of these three wines and the least complicated from an aromatic point of view. A first wave of aromas is focused on wild rose and crushed flowers. More robust tones of ripe cherry, rusty earth and dark spice follow in time. This edition of Cerretta is surprisingly delicate and fine, going against almost everything we know about robust fruit from Serralunga d'Alba and the powerful 2017 vintage. The wine is counterintuitive in a way only Nebbiolo can be.

This is really perfumed and enticing, offering intense floral and citrus character with some cherry. It’s full-bodied, yet tight and very reserved, with a long, racy finish. Fantastic depth of fruit here. Outstanding purity, too. Better in 2025.

A sweet perfume lifts from the 2017 Barolo Cerretta, with fresh violets, kirsch, cinnamon, and sage. The palate is energetic with forward fruit through the mid-palate with persistence, with tea leaf and present but well-integrated tannins. The Cerretta displays the elegance that is possible within the 2017 vintage. Drink 2022-2040. Since 2009, Luigi Baudana has been under the operation and ownership of the G.D. Vajra estate from Barolo. As with the Vajra estate, Giuseppe and Aldo manage the winemaking process, along with Giuseppe’s brother Isidoro, the vineyard manager. They continue to consult with Luigi for his understanding of the land and experience. They utilize primarily 15- to 17-hectoliter Slavonian barrels for aging, as the size of the cellar dictates. For the Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba bottling, selections are made from the crus of Baudana, Cerretta, and Costabella. With the 2019 vintage, they are now certified organic.

A dark, somber wine, the 2017 Barolo Cerretta shows the more potent, brooding side of Serralunga. Black cherry, gravel, smoke, cured meats, cloves and menthol add to an impression of virile intensity and pure power. Readers will have to be patient here, but there is certainly a ton to look forward to. This is another impressive showing from Baudana and the Vajra family.