Brunello di Montalcino Costanti 2021 (750ML)

Since 1983, Andrea Costanti has run this estate, among the historic names of Montalcino. His Brunello comes from vineyards just east of town that face north to northwest, and it is made to age. The 2021 starts out closed and brooding. Air brings plum and black cherry with dried tobacco, mint and cedar, then a waxy, flinty note and violets as it opens. The palate is tightly wound but finely built, with red and dark forest berries, a stony streak and a sour-citrus edge running through close-knit tannins to a very long finish. Soft in texture yet clearly structured, this is a Brunello to lay down rather than open young; critics see it coming around from 2028. When it does, set it beside braised short ribs, roast pigeon or porcini risotto.