Billecart Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs NV (750ML)

Avize, Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, four grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs, supply the Chardonnay for Billecart-Salmon's Blanc de Blancs, with fruit drawn from low-yielding parcels. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, and only part of the wine goes through malolactic, so the style is lean and precise. The dosage is kept very low, and the wine finishes emphatically dry. It pours a bright yellow-gold and opens with apple blossom, pear and citrus peel, fresh and floral rather than rich. The palate is light on its feet, with a fine, lively bead that carries the fruit toward a long, tapering finish with a chalky edge. It has concentration without heft, a Chardonnay that grips the palate and then lets go cleanly. At table, think seared scallops, sole in brown butter or a simple roast chicken.