Nicolas-Jay Spirit Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 (750ML)

Spirit Hill is an Argyle estate vineyard on volcanic soils in the Eola-Amity Hills, and Nicolas-Jay bottles its fruit as a single-vineyard, all-Chardonnay wine. Jean-Nicolas Méo fermented the 2023 with native yeasts and raised it in French oak for a little over a year, around two-fifths of the barrels new. A wet winter, warm summer days and a few brief showers before harvest gave fruit with real concentration that still holds its freshness. Pale gold in the glass, it opens with struck flint and white pepper over lemon curd, apricot, honey and white flowers. The palate is full and textured, Meyer lemon and green apple held tight by bright acidity, finishing long and stony. Critics give it until 2037. Try it with seared scallops, lobster in brown butter, roast chicken or a wedge of aged Comté.