Hudson Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2023 (750ML)

Small clusters with plenty of hens-and-chicks berries are the starting point for Hudson’s Chardonnay: Lee Hudson describes all his selections as low-yielding and early-ripening, and the tiny berries push phenolics up. The 2023, all Chardonnay, draws on three blocks, Ladybug, Little Bit and Seashell, on the Carneros ranch Hudson founded in 1979 and runs with his wife, Cristina. A long, cool season let the fruit ripen slowly. Grapes were picked at night, whole-cluster pressed and barrel-fermented with native yeasts in 70% new François Frères and Damy oak, then left 22 months on the lees before bottling unfined and unfiltered; 1,511 cases were made. Meyer lemon, ripe apple, pear, quince, honeyed stone fruit, toast and blanched almond fill a plush, generous palate, with bright acidity holding the richness in check. Critics allow it about ten years. Serve it with Dungeness crab, tarragon roast chicken or halibut in beurre blanc.