Tuesday, July 01, 2008
Honesty from Don Zacharaia part II
In a never ending series…
So, a few months ago I started this series with my first choice - a 2005 Cotes du Ventoux from Fadan at $11.99 the bottle.
For someone who also lives in the auction world where wines routinely are auctioned off at one thousand dollars per bottle, I was amazed at how good the $11.99 Ventoux was.
It’s summertime, and in the summer I like drinking Rosés. You guessed it – 2007 Mas du Fadan Rosé at $11.99 the bottle is my next selection.
A group at Zachys blind tasted six Rosés including the Fadan Rosé. The most expensive wine in the group was forty dollars. The Fadan was described as “clean, crisp – what a Rosé should be, delicious on the beach.” So I took it to the beach last week – a case – and with friends celebrated our Anniversary, Father’s Day, Friendship, and Health.
Mas du Fadan Rosé normally retails at $14.99 a bottle. The buyer reduced it to $11.99 temporarily - Since I’m the boss – I am going to further reduce it to $9.99/bottle – $119.50/case! The last time you could buy a terrific summertime Rosé for $9.99 was three decades ago.
Cotes du Ventoux Rosé 2007 {#150473},14.99,9.99
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Spotlight on Pink Bubbles
Three to four times a year, Andrew organizes a dinner for the sales staff to kick back relax and taste some new arrivals etc...
This past spring, Ned and I were in charge of organizing the wines. We decided to begin with champagne as the aperitif and I couldn’t help myself from serving the roses blind.
O what fun I had.
Out of 24 people, I was the only person to know what the wines were. And of course, I had to throw in a curve ball or two. Everyone was mixed up. People were guessing things left and right much to my delight.
The group picked two wines as their favorites:
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2002 (93IWC) {#142813}
(on sale for $180.00)
This was light salmon in color with a rose floral aroma supported by raspberry and green apple notes. The consensus of the group was that this was Billecart Salmon. An appropriate comparison and a shocker to everyone that this top quality bubbly was an 02 from such a large house.
Charles Ellner Rosé Brut NV {#135586} (on sale for $34.99)
This was voted the easy drinking, soft round, juicy rose that you couldn’t get enough of. In fact, I had to open more of this than any other bubbly. The group loved it. And the guesses ranged from Moet et Chandon, Godme, to Veuve Cliquot. They were all over the place but Ellner. Rightfully so, this was one of those curve balls.
It was the first time any of them were tasting the new batch of Ellner Rose. Frank put it best “this blend is light years ahead of the last bottling and really makes you take a closer look at this incredibly affordable bottle bubbly.” I couldn’t agree more!
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White Burgs of Uncommon Distinction - Ned Benedict
We’ve sourced these beautiful wines directly from our good friend Becky Wasserman, and as she notes below, these are class in a glass! These two wines are about the best of White Burgundy we can offer in 2008, and with these discounted prices, about as good value as well. These are delicious and drinkable tonight...but take Becky’s advice and put a few bottles away for a truly memorable experience!
Run by Doctor Léger-Plumet, the Domaine du Chalet Pouilly is a family property which is more than 1 hundred years old, with 8 hectares, and which produce 2 white wines - Pouilly-Fuisse and Saint-Veran.
“Our good doctor lives in Pouilly Fuisse and before he retired, ministered to his patients and the three star restaurants in France who covet their share of his small domaine. He has old vines; he is convinced that age is beneficial and that there is no technique that can imitate the taste of wine produced from old rootstock and nearly obsolete varieties of Chardonnay. Like most of our producers he also believes in minimum medication. The Leger-Plumet Pouilly Fuisses can be cellared as they are barrel aged, very dense in texture. Like the wines of the legendary Madame Ferret, they age beautifully and are often identified as very grand Puligny Montrachets. The Saint Veran is an extraordinary wine for the price. Some French sommeliers are fond of hiding such bottles in a large white napkin, then gently needling their customers who have rarely drunk such a modest wine. We prescribe both wines without hesitation.” Becky Wasserman
Saint Veran 2006 {#150468},24.99,18.99
Brilliant, focused and far outclasses it’s humble appellation!
Pouilly Fuisse 2005 {#143506},36.99,29.99
This is as good as Pouilly Fuisse gets! It’s got the unique Macon combination of freshness and penetrating power which livens up any dinner table, and makes an especially good bottle to bring over to the discerning wine drinker. This is our third vintage now with this producer, and this cuvee has become one of the most popular White Burgundies at Zachys.
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A Surprisingly Appropriate Summer Red - Jeremy Noye
One night during the heat wave that hit New York in the beginning of June, I was making dinner for my wife and I. Since it was so bloody hot, I decided to do some simply grilled beef served with a mixed green salad of fennel, avocado and grape tomatoes. Simple, fresh, easy and kind of light.
Since we were having red meat and my wife is more of a red fan, I went to the wine fridge in search of a light red wine. I was thinking, Cotes du Rhone, Minervois, Beaujolais, Bourgogne Rouge, etc… %#$&!!! I’ve been a little remiss in stocking up for the summer. None of the above, to quench my thirst and my wife’s desire for red. But wait a minute, maybe this could work. I might be able to pull this off. And indeed I did, surprisingly!
I pulled out and decided to crack open a California Syrah that our USA buyer, Beth von Benz gave me to try. Some of you might be saying, of course Syrah. And yes, Syrah is used in Cotes du Rhone and Minervois but to me California Syrah is normally medium to full body with some pretty rich fruit and structure. Well luckily for me, Bob Lindquist and his team at Qupe have crafted a beautiful medium body 2006 Santa Barbara Syrah that is pure elegance.
This wine shows beautiful black cherry fruit up front with an intoxicating aroma of black peppercorn and spice right out of the gate. As the wine opened up, the fruit did evolve into a darker fruit profile, but never lost that fresh vibrancy of the initial pour. Medium body in structure this Syrah has a freshness to it that makes it a joy and pleasure to drink at such a young stage. Rather than being dense and powerful, this wine has an elegance about it that reminds me of burgundy without the spice. Very caressing on the palate with the hall mark spice of Syrah. This was a real joy to drink and a perfect match to simply grilled red meat; not to mention my wife asked me to bring home more.
What more could I ask for?
Qupe Santa Barbara Syrah 2006 {#154247},34.99,24.99
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The Original Cab - Jeremy Noye
Did you know that Cabernet Franc is the original Cab?
Yep- Franc, Cab Franc is the one and only original. Cabernet Sauvignon is actual a genetic cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon (now commonly referred to as Sauvignon Blanc.) Cab Franc’s home is Bordeaux, where it is commonly blend these days with Merlot and Cab Sauv. However, just a little north of Bordeaux close to Paris, the Loire Valley has embraced Cab Franc for hundreds of years.
The Loire Valley can be broken into three sections: the coastal area around Nates, the Central Valley (Anjou-Saumur & Touraine) and the end of the valley East of Orleans once the river takes you a little north.
The Center Valley is Cab Franc territory. An area that produces many varying styles of this prestigious variety.
Have you ever tried a Chinon, Saumur Rouge, Saumur Champigny, Bourgueil or Anjou Rouge? Then you’ve drank a Cab Franc based wine.
Each village/appellation has different rules and regulations but in general these wines are all 70% or more of Cab Franc.
In Anjou the wines tend to be medium body, soft and round with minimal oak if any. The fruit can range from cherry to a blueberry quality and the wines normally have a nice herbal, spice character. Chinon can be light to medium full in body and is known as one of the most age-worthy selections of Cab Franc. Bourgueil is typically denser and has more of a fleshy feel than Chinon. Saumur Champigny tends to be the more tannic version that is reminiscent of Bordeaux yet is clearly Loire Cab Franc.
For the most part these wines deliver immediate pleasure and affordability. There are some exceptional wines that can age for 20 or more years but in general I say drink your Loire Cab Franc within 5 years. Why wait, they are already delicious!
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